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[ Article appeared in JQ magazine,
July 2002 issue]

In Focus: Zoltan David
In this series, we pause to salute a very short list of elite jewelry designers who follow their own vision regardless of trends. Their style is so unique that it becomes their identity.

Right Livelihood
by Janet Volkman Photos by JQ Magazine
It's a sunny summer day in Edmonton, Canada, a teenage boy wanders down to the riverbank to sit and watch the water. He starts playing with the clay at his feet, picking it up, rolling it around in his hands, making shapes out of it for his own amusement. Before long he's sculpting with soapstone and soon enrolls in a sculpting class. He likes it; he finds it comes naturally to him. Eventually, he decides that despite pressure to join his father's trucking business, he needs to work

with his hands. When he graduates, he says he will make a choice between making furniture and jewelry.  He tries the furniture workshop first, only to find that itıs too noisy and dusty. So, Zoltan David set himself on the course of making jewelry. The three themes that would dominate his life and work for the next 30 years began to emerge: freedom, serendipity, and passion.

Hungarian, living in Budapest, Mr. David's father was a World War II hero, a freedom fighter, and a leader in the 1956 Hungarian revolution against the Soviets' stranglehold on the country. As a result, the family - little Zoltan was only six - had no choice but to emigrate. They went to Canada, which is how David found himself in Edmonton, near the muddy riverbank.

The importance of freedom of body and spirit has never left Zoltan. To this day, a fan of Ayn Rand, his strongest belief may be in the ability - and right - of every person to reach his or her potential. He is the embodiment of someone who has done this. Hence, when he decided to make jewelry and goldsmithing his trade and his art, he also decided to be apprentice to the best person he could find. At the time, in Canada, a world-renowned Swiss goldsmith named Toni Cavelti stood head and shoulders above the rest. But he wasn't taking any students or interns. Then, one day, the young Mr. David opened up the Vancouver Sun right to the page where there was an ad for a diamond-setter. Toni Cavelti had placed the ad.

Mr. David called immediately and was told that the ad ran by mistake - the paper was supposed to have pulled it because the firm was no longer looking. Undaunted, Mr. David sent in some pictures of his work and expressed his desire to learn from the best. To make a long story short, he was hired. Today Mr. David names Toni Cavelti as his most significant mentor - as a goldsmith and as a man. "He was so poised, gracious, and intelligent," he says, "a tremendous artist and the finest gentleman."

Later, Mr. David also studied under other European master goldsmiths at Karl Stittgen Studio. After eight years of apprenticeship, Mr. David won his first design award - the 1979 De Beers Diamonds Today competition. He knew the time had come to be on his own. He opened the Zoltan David Design Studio in Vancouver, in 1980. After a short while, he relocated to Laguna Beach, California, and then to Austin, Texas, in 1995.

At first, he freelanced for other goldsmiths and stores, and then began, slowly, to sell wholesale. In what he calls a "leap of faith," he went totally wholesale in conjunction with the move to Austin. Nothing but success has followed. When asked what has surprised him most about designing jewelry, he is quick to respond, "How rewarding it is. I love doing it. I love metal, creating, problem solving, the thrill of achievement, and the joy of creation. I've been doing it for 30 years, and I'm still excited to go into the studio."

That passion has never failed him. Over the years, his designs have won just about every award there is. His quest for excellence has led him to make jewelry that is not only elegant and sophisticated, but also enduring. There are three categories in the making of jewelry, he says: design, goldsmithing, and stone setting. In what he modestly calls a "bold egotistical statement," he says he is a "master of all three," and that such technical skill "has a huge influence on design and vice versa." Thirty years down the road, he says, any of his creations will still be a well-made piece.

Mr. David believes that "everybody is born with a contribution to make; that our essential nature is to create." Clearly he has found his niche. His jewelry today is still hand-forged, without models, wax, or casting. He and his staff of talented, German-certified, master goldsmiths do all the tiny, intricate details that characterize his latest work. Several years ago, he gave the studio a name - the Dancing Metals Studio - because sometimes he feels like a choreographer, and the dancers are the metals.

He works only with platinum and high-karat gold. He explains, "With the amount of creative energy and execution that goes into each piece, I don't want to use substandard materials." In fact, Susan Cimiotti of Panache, in tourist destination Mendocino, California, says people come back again and again for Mr. David's pieces, because "they want something unique, and for the amount of work that's obviously gone into it." His business has been renamed: it is now called, appropriately, Zoltan David, Precious Metal Art.

His design motifs were at first highly contemporary, avant-garde even. His one-of-a-kind pieces, many with extraordinary gemstones, earned his reputation for inventiveness and beautiful handwork. Mitch Diamant, of Polo Jewelers in Wellington, Florida, says Mr. David's pieces are "connoisseur's jewelry - uncopyable - each one is put together entirely by hand." Today his style has settled down a bit, though his look is still contemporary, it's more restrained, although equally labor-intensive. And there's a consistency from one piece to another enabling layering or wardrobing. Now he is working with geometries of inlay, painstakingly laid in, in varying metal combinations such as gold inlaid in platinum, and platinum inlaid in gold. Some of the gold is yellow, some 20-karat rose or pink. Gemstones and diamonds are always the finest quality.

He did not know the origin of the linear inlay motifs that began to appear with some frequency in his designs. They seemed to come to him so easily and naturally from some deep, inner source. And then he returned to Budapest with his wife. As he walked around, he recalled the many times he rode around the city on the back of a motorcycle with his father when he was a child. Mr. David was trying to remember everything he had left at the age of six. But he was blank - too much time had passed. Then it struck him: the geometries in his jewelry were the recurrent motifs of Austro-Hungarian architecture. The cathedral ceilings, parliament rooftops, etc., had somehow been imprinted in his brain to re-emerge 40 years later in another beautiful form.

A few lucky people are totally in sync with what they do professionally. They invest their whole selves into their work. Of course, the extra emotion and energy they give to their art shows in the end result - it's something that cannot be faked. Zoltan David's jewelry tells us that he's one who is so favored - he found his niche on a riverbank and follows his passion to this day.
 

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